Thursday, December 21, 2006

The Fifth Grill

The Fifth Grill
225 Richmond St. W. (at Duncan St.) 416-979-3005
The freight elevator still ascends from the nightclub, and it still opens into a room of candlelit elegance, the feeling of space subtly increased by a recent makeover. Cocktails at the long bar give a chance to listen to the discreetly pitched crooning of a jazz pianist. But gone is the haute French prix fixe, replaced by a menu centred around five cuts of steak, including an impeccably tender bone-in delmonico. Choice of vegetables and sauces include dark, crisp frites, perhaps, or mashed potato with a pleasant wasabi fragrance; salty spinach with truffled shallots; and steamed broccolini with sweet oyster sauce. One night’s starters include a huge platter of build-your-own lettuce wraps with julienne mango and carrot, a stir-fry of baby shrimp. A rich puff pastry frame full of diced red pepper floats in a creamy corn chowder. The service and the list of well-handled wines match the sophisticated charm of the surroundings.
(Source: Toronto Life)

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