Thursday, December 21, 2006

Ruth's Chris Steakhouse


Another one of my all time favorites
Ruth's Chris
145 Richmond St. W. (at University Ave.), Hilton Toronto Hotel 416-955-1455
There’s no denying that this steak house resides in a hotel sub-basement—business trippers and die-hard carnivores lounge in a windowless space of classy dark woods, lobster tanks and promotional materials on linen-clad tables. Louisiana-influenced starters hint at the chain’s roots. New Orleans cocktail sauce with horseradish gives a pleasant kick to fresh shrimp, although splayed dip gives it a slightly messy look. Room-temperature caesar salad delivers on creaminess but falls short on parmesan, while lump crab stuffing over mushroom caps could use a moment more under the broiler. But no matter: we’re all here for the meat. Specializing in custom-aged Midwestern beef, slabs are broiled to perfection at 1,800° F and topped with a teaspoon of butter. Twelve-ounce filet is by far the most tender cut sampled. Cowboy rib-eye and N.Y. strip also yield to simple dinner knives. A white cloth napkin enfolds addictive, greaseless shoestring frites, outshining under-sautéed mushrooms in butter. Mammoth desserts follow the gluttonous theme, in line with the expense-account New and Old World wine list. An army of servers ensures patrons never have to ask “Where’s the beef?”

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